Technical Pattern Making Advanced Outerwear

Head Instructor Star Hoerauf

In this challenging and industry-specific course, you will learn how technical apparel is designed and manufactured. With a focus on pattern making that uses the technical and performance properties of various fabrics for specific end-uses such as sports, recreation, survival, and protection, you will pursue advanced pattern making and garment assembly studies geared to the outdoor sports enthusiasts. You will acquire the knowledge of new fibres, fabrics and trims, and learn how to apply specific technical construction techniques to build performance garments. You will also visit local Vancouver manufacturers specializing in technical apparel manufacturing. For your final project, you will pattern and sew a four-piece capsule collection. This advanced course has entry requirements of a one-year Pattern Making course, or equivalent.

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Term: 14 weeks x 20/hrs = 280 hours
Weekly: Lecture 8 hrs/week. Lab 12 hrs/week

View 2018-2019 Academic Calendar here

PERFORMANCE TEXTILES, FIT & FEATURES

  • Identify and work with specific manufacturing equipment
  • Define the terminology common to the technical outerwear / active wear industry
  • Identify performance textiles, fit and features
  • Review leading products for performance design features
  • Understand anatomic fit, and sport-specific movement
  • Draft active wear block (top and bottom)
  • Cut and sew fabric; correct muslin

BASE LAYER

  • Understand the application of base layers
  • Apply the considerations given for creating base layer products (seam placement, fit, layering, features, fabrics and construction)
  • Review competitive samples and key design features
  • Review and fit active wear blocks; identify corrections
  • Draft and sew base layer, top and bottom

YOGA PANTS & ACTIVE WEAR TOP

  • Review competitive samples and key design features
  • Apply the considerations given for creating base layer products (seam placement, fit, layering, features, fabrics and construction)
  • Review base layer pieces
  • Draft and sew yoga pant and active wear top

MID-LAYERS

  • Understand and apply the application of mid layers (fleece, synthetic insulation)
  • Review Yoga pant and top; fit and identify corrections
  • Draft and sew mid-layers, both fleece and synthetic insulation

TECHNICAL PANT

  • Comprehend all considerations for technical pants (hiking, running, mountaineering – lightweight to alpine weight soft-shell)
  • Apply sizing and fit considerations for technical end uses
  • Advanced fabrics and trims
  • Performance construction techniques
  • Review and fit Yoga Pant corrections, and active top (if necessary)
  • Review and fit mid-layers
  • Draft and sew men’s and women’s technical pant (two different uses)

DOWN INSULTATION

  • Introduction to down construction and patterning
  • Technical considerations
  • Materials
  • Draft and sew down jacket and ideal build (at minimum, create down pillow samples)

FACTORY VISIT

  • Review and fit all pants and down projects; identify corrections
  • Visit variety of manufacturing centers in and around Vancouver

OUTERWEAR

  • Introduction to outerwear products, fabrics, features and specific manufacturing techniques
  • Discuss advantages and disadvantages to specific fit, fabric and features
  • Introduction and exploration of hoods (one of the most difficult elements of outerwear to fit well)
  • Draft and sew muslin or mock-ups of basic outerwear shell block, including hood
  • Refine body block for fit, seam placement, articulation and mobility
  • Review hood and basic body
  • Add refinements to block; sew muslin
  • Examine general and sport-specific features (cuff closures, ventilation, innovative closures or adjustments)
  • Review and fit outerwear pattern to date
  • Complete jacket shell pattern; sew final sample in correct fabric

WATERPROOF OUTERWEAR

  • Introduction to waterproof pants; fit, mobility and fabrics
  • Review and fit jacket
  • Complete jacket as needed; draft pant; sew muslin
  • Fit and review pant muslin and jacket (as needed)
  • Examine general and sport-specific features (cuff closures, ventilation, innovative closures or adjustments)
  • Add features and articulation to pant pattern; sew final sample
  • Examine construction necessary to make a garment with an attached lining waterproof
  • Draft pattern; sew jacket with attached lining
  • Final fittings; review of jacket and pant with applicable layers and sport-relevant equipment

PRESENTATION

  • Final: Students will create a 2 final looks included one knit piece and one 3 layered piece.
  • Students will present their final presentation to peers, the Dean of The Cut Fashion Design Academy and the course instructor.
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